We wish to thank the Ski-Bob Association of Great Britain for kindly allowing us to publish this manual

Riding Technique...

















  Since the 6th Edition of the SAGB Skibike Manual many things have changed which reflects a resurgence of interest in a sport that, despite its longevity, is still little known and much underrated.  This manual is in two parts:


Skibiking for beginners (which is a synopsis of the main instructors manual) and

SAGB Instructors Manual


Whatever your level, I know you will find the sport is easy to learn and fun to do either for leisure or eventually, even as a racer on the International racing circuit. Without doubt you will find it rewarding and, although it is so easy to get started, you will find it a real challenge to race competitively. The first challenge though is to become a good skibiker and help to get our sport accepted by everyone by being courteous to other winter sports enthusiasts and demonstrating the merits of Skibiking in a convincing way. The aim of this manual is to help you do this

Skibob, Skibike, Snowbike, Veloski – what’s in a name!


Although the sport is internationally known as “Skibob”, this is a German word that can be translated into English as “Skibike”. The SAGB has decided to retain the Skibob in their title for continuity but the British Racing Team has been using “Skibike” in its title since 1993 and will continue to do so. To confuse matters further the Swiss changed their name at the same time to Swiss Snowbike and their main sponsor, Mike Flachsmann who makes most of the racing equipment, changed the name of his products to Snowbikes. If that is not complicated enough you will find that “Snowbike®” has for several years been trademarked by the Austrian firm Brenter who make lightweight Snowbikes® for the expanding leisure market.


Historical perspective.


There have been many types of skibike like devices going back over more than a century. Some historical information and a fact sheet have been added at the end of this edition so that the instructor can reply to questions consistently and accurately.


The birth of the modern sport of skibiking is generally linked to Englebert Brenter who patented the “sitski” in March 1949. The big difference was the use of skis instead of metal or wooden runners thus introducing the skid/sliding turn which made it possible to get off the ice tracks and go anywhere a skier could go; including powder snow. The stability of the Sitski was much better than its predecessors because Brenter was also the first to add separate foot skis. Now you could go everywhere the others could; even up hill on the drag lifts! Harmony and equality with skiers and snowboarders is still important to the growth and acceptance of our sport today.


Braking with metal claws on the back of the footskis was an early source of friction with skiers.  The claws dug grooves in the piste until everyone realised that trying to slowdown in this way with just your heels did not work very well compared to the new techniques being developed. These were to control speed like a skier by simply sliding the back ski. Many of the people who are anti our sport remember it from these early days before the claws were removed and they need to be shown how we have changed.


As Skibiking expands so too there will be many new varieties of machine and riding techniques. Already we have skibikers who prefer to ride without footskis ( often called “footpeggers”). There are quick fitting BMX conversions, wide ski Snowscoots (with and without a seat) and other fun things that you just stand on. There are some things like the Skifox that have no front ski; some have 3 skis while others even have motors and tracks, etc. None are stranger than the rocket powered skibike patented in 1950. For the moment the FISB controls our sport and defines a Skibike/Skibob with two skis, handlebars, a saddle and footskis. Some these devices and riding methods will last longer than others and some may become accepted and mainstream. As Instructors and leaders we must be tolerant, open minded and encourage common sense and good safe practice to achieve our aim of teaching the world to have fun skibiking whilst discouraging bad practice and ignorance that will interfere with the free practice of our sport.


This Manual and further information.


This manual was taken from many sources and was originally designed for the British Armed Forces in the early seventies with the help of Hans Buhler a pioneer of German Skibobbing and an ex World Champion. It has now been taken into general use by the SAGB and reflects many new ideas from our own experiences and best practice from the Continent. Paul Griffin created most of the illustrations but some are copied from the original German texts. I am indebted to the Swiss, German and Austrian Skibob Associations for helping me assemble this manual.

Those who wish to take up the sport seriously will find that it takes as much skill, nerve, fitness and judgement as skiing does.  Details of novice, intermediate and expert and SAGB Instructor Standards and Courses can be obtained through the Skibob Association of Great Britain (SAGB) website ( www.skibob.org.uk ) and also for Sponsorship and Racing information concerning the British National Skibike Racing Team and the British National Championships. For further information on International Racing at the European and World Championships and also the  World Cup Events visit the FISB website (www.skibob.org ).


Richard Platt

Chairman SAGB                  Edition 7 as at 6 Nov 2006    



Skibobs of one sort or another can be traced back to the 1892 but it was not until 1954 that the first skibob race was held  at Obertauern and in 1961 the Federation Internationale de Skibob (FISB) was formed to promote and control the sport. The first World Skibob Championships was held in 1963 and the UK became affiliated to the FISB on the formation of the Skibob Association of GB (SAGB) in 1967. Since then skibobbing has been developed as an international sport with the same range of Championships as for alpine skiers and over similar courses.  Speeds in excess of 100 mph have been recorded (at the time of writing the world Skibob speed record is held by Romuald Bonvin from Switzerland who achieved 184.900Kph at Les Arcs in March 2000)


The Ski Bike Association of Great Britain (SAGB) is the controlling authority for skibiking in the UK.  A British National Ski Bike week is sometimes organised by the SAGB at an alpine resort and every year they hold a British National Skibike Championships. The SAGB and the Services run novice courses and arrange race training to potential racers. The SAGB  promotes a British National Skibike Racing Team that competes at the World Skibob Championships and encourages individuals to compete in the FISB  World Cup and FISB – A series of races. Further historical and factual information can be found at he back of this book.




· Clothing.  Waterproof Ski-Jacket and Salopettes. Warm headwear/Ski Helmet, and ski gloves.


· Boots.    Well fitting ski boots that lock and support the ankle joint.


Ski Bike


· Frame There are different frames types. Light for leisure and heavy for racing.


· Handlebars   Adjustable for height and flat for storage or lift queues.


· Front Ski   Steerable and can flex in a vertical plane.


· .Saddle   Long and high enough to grip with knees.  


· Rear ski  Longest ski designed to run after or follow the front ski.


· Suspension  Depending on style and use of bike there will be some arrangement of springs and     shock absorbers to cushion the shock of the bumps.


· Foot Rest  On frame of racing bikes.


Foot Skis.   


These can be made from the front end of any pair of skis and any type of ski binding can be used.  Properly manufactured foot skis are recommended and tend to last much longer than modified skis as they are properly strengthened and sealed against the weather.



One of the first things to learn is how to look after your equipment, remember your safety and that of others depends on it.


Before Use:

a.  Adjust

 (1) Foot ski bindings. These should be correctly tightened and set up for size and  weight (if applicable).

 (2)   Saddle. Saddle height should make the top of the thigh go slightly downhill towards the knees.

 (3) Handlebar height and alignment.

 (4) Spring settings if adjustable.

b. Check

(1) Bike Frame. Ensure all nuts and bolts are present and tight. Include handlebar clamp.

(2) Skis. Ensure edges of skis are sharp (including foot skis).

(3) Soles of skis are smooth and not damaged.

 (4) Shock-absorbers for leaks and effective working.

(5) Security of foot ski safety straps.


After Use:

 After use always:

(1) Check and clean the bike.

(2) Sharpen the edges of the skis.

(3)Wax the skis and repair as necessary.






13.  Ski biking has been given a very bad name during its early years because of the inconsideration of Ski bikers who hurtled down the slopes out of control, tore up the piste and knocked skiers off the ski lifts.  Just because ski biking is easy to learn does not mean that you can forget simple courtesy and safety.  Although it is easy to learn the basics it takes time to develop the skills and techniques required of a good ski biker particularly when going fast.  Ski instructors teaching ski biking must keep a tight control on the class until they can safely handle speed.  It is fun but don’t spoil it for others!  Make sure you do not take up too much room in lift queues and be careful that your bike does not hit anyone if you turn round. Remember to keep control of your front ski.


Remember the following rules of the International Ski Federation:


1. Respect to others
A skier must behave in such a way as he does not endanger or prejudice others.

2. Control of speed and skiing
A skier must ski in control. He must adapt his speed or manner of skiing to his personal ability and to the prevailing conditions, terrain, snow and weather as well as the density of traffic.

3. Choice of route
A skier who is coming from behind must choose his route in such a way that it does not endanger skiers ahead.

4. Overtaking
A skier may overtake another skier above or below and to the right or left provided he leaves enough space for the overtaken skier to make voluntary or involuntary movement.

5. Entering and starting
A skier entering a marked run or starting again after stopping must look up and down the run to make sure he can do so without endangering himself or others.

6. Stopping on the piste
Unless absolutely necessary, a skier must avoid stopping on the piste in narrow places or where visibility is restricted. After a fall in such a place, the skier must move clear of the piste as soon as possible.

7. Climbing and descending on foot.
Whether climbing or descending on foot, the skier must keep to the side of the piste.

8. Respect for signs and marking
A skier must respect all signs and markings.

9. Assistance
At accidents, every skier is bound to assist.

10. Identification
Every skier and witness, whether







Demonstrate and explain the basic sitting position.


· Sit well back on the saddle.


· Wrists straight.


· Keep the arms slightly bent at the elbows and tucked in.


· Grip the saddle firmly with your knees and thighs


· Keep the Foot skis close in and parallel to bike ensuring the foot-skis are flat and in-line with the rear ski.


· Ensure the body leans slightly forward from the waist.


At this point it is a good idea to demonstrate how to foot-ski as this will be invaluable in the following lessons and when using ski-lifts. Also demonstrate how to push the bike whilst wearing foot-skis and on a flat surface.





There are several ways to carry a bike:


· Hand under saddle, hand on the handlebars. Hold the bike horizontal.


· Over shoulder with bike horizontal.


· Bike vertical, flatten handlebars, hold rear of front ski and put other arm through frame of bike and hold on lower part of frame.


· Split bike by removing handlebars.







· Push underneath if bike is low enough but make sure the saddle is pushed clear of the rotating bar.


· Lift over turnstiles by resting the back ski of the bike on the bar of the turnstile while putting the ticket in. Make sure the turnstile does not get tangled in the bike frame.




There are many different types of lift systems that the instructor has to have a thorough knowledge of each lift. It is essential to ensure that you know each lift type where you are teaching prior to the lesson beginning.


To assist students in negotiating each lift type the following action is advisable:


· Develop skills in foot-skiing

· Demonstrate on how to collapse and carry their skibike but also the difficulties or simplicity of other types they may come across.


The classic instructor mistake is to get too carried away teaching students how to get on the lift and ending up with a personal demonstration of how to do it before telling them how to get off at the top!   


· Think it through from start to finish

· Make it as simple and clear as you can.

· Use a competent skibiker as a demonstrator if possible and for assistance at the end of the skilift.

· Demonstrate the entry and exit at the start of the lift if possible.

· The instructor should go last to ensure the whole group has reached the top.


Here are the main categories of lift. Don’t clutter their minds with too much information when they are beginners – keep it simple and safe. Make it interesting, get them to suggest the solutions and don’t put them off by making it sound more difficult than it is.


Cable Car


· If possible collapse or dismantle the bike and carry it so that it takes up least space.

· If you leave the front ski on then turn the handlebars flat and carry the bike vertically with the front ski uppermost but remember to keep one hand on the front ski to stop it turning.

· Ensure that the bike is kept close to the body at all times and make sure that the student is in control and aware of the bikes position.




Smaller cabins with racks for skis outside are sometimes also ok for small or light ski bikes (but never for a heavy racing bike because it may damage the rear ski).  


· Split your bike, unless it is a small light weight one, put the rear end of the ski in the rack and take the handlebars into the cabin.

·  There are several types of cabin now where it is better to take the whole bike inside but split down to a front and back part.

· Slip the foot skis over the handlebars or link the safety straps together and hand the foot skis over your shoulder.




Chairlifts require no equipment to be taken off or for the skibike to be dismantled. Some resorts require straps to secure the bike to the chairlift/person.


· Leave your foot-skis on.  

· Hold the ski bike in the outside hand, i.e. away from the chair.  

· With the free hand, steady the chair and sit on the outside seat.

· Once seated place the underside of ski bike saddle onto the arm of the chair.

· Pull the safety bar down and place the handlebar on the safety bar from the inside.

· Hold the ski bike firmly during the ride.  

· When nearing the top station disengage the skibike from the safety bar, chair and hold it on the outside of the chair ready to put down on the arrival platform.  

· On arrival, place the skibike on the ground, slide off the chair on your foot skis and lean forward.

· Slide the bob parallel to you and ski off to the side with a few skating steps.


T-Bar and Button lift


Beginner - Standing up.  


· Leave the foot skis on and ski up to the T-bar/Button lift.

· Place the bike between your legs and hold the handlebars with your outside hand.  

· With your other hand catch the T-Bar and place the T-Bar behind you and on your pelvic area

· Get ready for the pull of the lift and keep the bike straight by letting the handlebars rest on your thighs and by steering the handlebar to keep the front ski pointing forward.

· Steer the front ski back to centre if it does not run straight or catches a wrong edge.  


Advanced - Sitting down.  


Sit on the bike when you have it lined up straight.  Lean away from the attendant and release the handlebar with the hand nearest him so that he can fit the T-Bar onto the hook-on-system or belt if you have one.  When the T-Bar is secure, quickly return your hand to the handlebar and wait for the jolt.  Pull the T-Bar towards you at the top to release. When more experienced you can put the T-bar on the saddle and sit on it. Do not put the T-bar through the frame of the bike or underneath the saddle. It is best not to sit on the button lift because the disc damages the saddle.


Button Bar


· Leave the foot skis on and ski up to the T-bar/Button lift.

· Place the bike between your legs and hold the handlebars with your outside hand.  

· With your other hand catch the button bar and let it come parallel with your body

· Pull the button down and back towards your knees

· Pull the button up and in-between your legs as far up as it will go.


For a button lift it is a good idea to tell the student to stand with his feet apart and bend his knee towards the button to make it easier to get it between the legs. He then has to pull the bar up and have one hand on it to keep it there while squeezing the thighs together. It is also possible to lift the inside foot-ski to help get the button under your leg. Ensure that the button is placed as far up as possible or it may slip down to your lower legs.






Before considering how you are going to go downhill you must learn the easiest way to climb up and do a static turn:


· Demonstrate that the ski bike is a good anchor, which is particularly useful on steep slopes.  Use the bike to steady yourself.


· Put bike on shoulder or carry horizontally.


· Walk up hill sideways with foot skis across the slope, digging in the edges the steeper it is.


· Cross over step is quicker but more difficult to master.


· Herringbone step is fast and safe but remember to drive in the inside edges of the foot ski hard.  With this method you can easily keep the bike between your legs and lean forward onto the handlebars to push the bike straight up the fall line.


· Static turn herringbone.


· Static turn lifting the bike round facing uphill.




Choose a gentle slope that leads onto flat ground or a slight uphill section.


·  Face down fall line.


· Give gentle push and slide away.


· Remind the rider of the basic position and grip with knees.


If this type of slope is not available a similar effect can be experienced by traversing across a slope until the bike stops. Encourage the rider to keep the bike pointing across the hill at all times until the bike stops.


Repeat several times to get the feel of the bike.




· Hitting someone with the bike when turning round in a lift queue.


When sitting on bike:


· Letting feet stray away from bike sideways.  Remember also when getting on or off the bike do not cock your leg over the saddle but slide the bike forward, move your leg to the side and then slide the bike backwards between your legs.


· Not gripping the saddle with your knees/thighs.



 When riding straight downhill:


· Sitting too upright and not leaning forward.


· Feet slide forward so that heel of foot ski digs into the snow.  NEVER EVER DO THIS EVEN IF TRYING TO SLOW DOWN.  There are far more effective methods of stopping.


· Too much weight on feet.




Try lifting alternate feet and then both feet together then stand up and sit down. A good exercise for balance is to kneel on the saddle with one knee then both but make sue the slope is suitable.






Find a gentle slope and adopt the correct sitting position across the slope. Lean bike into the slope so that the inside edges bites into the snow. Keep weight on the downhill foot ski inside edge.  Your body should lean away from the slope so that your weight is directly over the inside edge of the ski.


· Look up to ensure the way is clear.


· Point your bike diagonally down the slope and push off.


· Concentrate on keeping knees together and weight on the uphill handlebar and slide the back end round.




Accelerator -  To go faster turn handlebars down the slope.


Brake -  To slow down - turn across the slope and even steer uphill if necessary.




Adopt the basic traverse position with edges well dug in.  Put less weight on the uphill handlebars, i.e. flatten the skis, but maintain body weight uphill of skis.


· If front of bike slides away or you start to move forward - lean back.


· If the rear slides away - lean forward.


When you want to stop just drive in the inside edge, put weight on inside handlebar and adopt traverse position.




Practice accelerating and braking while traversing.  Practice side slipping - leaning forward and back alternately to get used to the effect.




· Not enough inside edge on traverse.


· Weight on uphill foot ski.


· Catching outside edge while side slipping.







Choose a gentle slope where the snow is not bumpy.  From the traverse position:


· Stand up on foot skis.


· Lean forward onto handlebars.


· Turn front ski down the slope, through fall line and across slope on the other traverse, gradually increasing pressure on uphill handlebar until the turn is complete.


· Follow round on foot skis.


· Sit down and adopt good traverse position with uphill edges well dug in.


· Turn into slope to stop.




 Do the same thing sitting down and try to sideslip to a halt by forcing all your weight on the saddle.  Try the turn the other way and when confident, connect the turns up without stopping after each turn.




· Too fast.


· Foot skis out of alignment with bike, to much weight on them.


            · Inner edges not digging in enough.


· Not enough counter steering and slipping back down the slope after the turn


· Advise the rider to stand up and use the herringbone position if this happens.





Choose a slightly steeper slope but still without bumps.  


The swing is a turn during which the rear ski is pushed out to the side to reduce speed.  You drive into the swing as you would the simple turn, but this time you press the inner thigh against the seat and take weight off the rear ski a little by raising your body from the seat.  Your hands should not apply as much pressure to the inner handlebar as is done during the simple turn.  When the rear ski is pushed out to the side your weight is reapplied to it smoothly and the front ski is then at a small angle to it.  The body should be leant slightly into the slope during the swing.  Once this has been mastered, follow one swing turn with another in the opposite direction, maintaining rhythm.


2.  Remember the sequence:


· Start in good traverse position.


· Lean on the handlebars and flatten the skis.


· Turn towards the fall line.


· Un-weight the bike.


· Push bike round with inside thigh.


· Sit down on saddle.


· Slide slip rear ski.


· Dig in uphill edges in order to brake.


· Adopt good traverse position.




3.  The swing stop is the only correct way of stopping and you should be able to execute it at any speed and on any terrain.  To carry out this manoeuvre:


· Stand up whilst riding down the  all line.


· Lift the front ski so that it is diagonal to the fall line;  at the same time use your knees push the rear ski across the

                fall line.


· The foot ski turn through 90° along with the skibob and  weight  is applied along the whole length of the skis.          

     (This is done by applying pressure by hand to the inside handlebar and by pressing with your thighs).


· The skibike and your body leans into the slope and you ease yourself down onto the skibike according to your speed.


· The skibike now stands at a gentle angle to the slope.


This exercise is one of the most difficult, but despite everything it should be mastered.  Start off slowly and then gradually increase your speed.




 Follow one turn directly by another with rhythm.  Try braking more between turns to slow right down while still carrying out swing turns.  Then accelerate away again by doing shorter swings.


Try the Stop Swing slowly both ways on a gentle slope.  Then gradually increase speed until you can come to an emergency dead stop on a steep slope.




Swing Turn


The body is lifted off the back ski for too long causing the rear ski to drift out too far and you end up turning on the spot or the skis are not unweighted enough resulting in a  wide turn without any swing.


Weight is applied to the wrong foot and the wrong handlebar.  An exercise to drive this point home is to ride with the downhill hand behind the back as soon as it becomes the downside hand.  Also lift the uphill foot ski as soon as possible.


Swing Stop.  


The edge of the front ski is not driven into the slope hard enough with weight on the inside handlebar.  Weight distribution is often a problem but remember it is no disgrace to stop dead when required to do so and fall over into the slope.






Don’t go too fast too soon!  Practice on gentle bumps and concentrate on having your weight in the right place at the right time.  Stay in contact with the bike.


Leaving the crest:


· Lean forward shifting your weight to the front ski

· Press your hands down on the handlebars to keep your front ski in contact with the snow.


At the bottom of the trough:  


· Lean back sharply in order to unweight the front ski to stop the font ski digging into the coming side of the trough.


At the next crest


· As you ride up the other side of the trough shift your weight to the front ski so that it does not loose contact with the snow again.

· Because your weight was transferred backwards from the front to the back ski at the bottom of the trough, the momentum carrying you out of the trough is much weaker and so the ski bike is easier to handle.




Approaching the undulations too quickly.


· The student will usually be pitched into the bottom of the trough out of control with very little chance of surviving the next bump.


 Wrong weight distribution.  


· Exaggerated movements are needed at first to drive the point home.


· Losing contact with the bike completely.






 It is not as easy to jump or pre-jump a cliff as it is with skis.  Try to maintain contact with the bike by gripping with your knees throughout the jump.  The jump can be divided into 3 parts:


Take Off.  


· Try to anticipate a jump by pulling back with your arms and body so that the front ski is almost raised before it reaches the apex of the obstacle.


· Foot skies remain flat and, most important of all, grip the saddle with your knees.


The Jump.


· Push down with your arms as soon as you hit the crest and stand up.


· You are now usually completely off the ground and should adopt the correct position of legs slightly bent, knees gripping the saddle, body leaning slightly forward.


· Make sure that the front ski keeps pointing down the fall line of the slope.




· Just before you touch the ground ensure your knees are bent in preparation for the impact. Your legs will then absorb the shock of your body weight.  


· The rear ski should touch the ground first, then the foot ski and finally the front ski.  Your legs should still be bent at the knees but the skis should be held closely together.  


· When lowering yourself onto the seat (do not flop onto it heavily) the front and back skis must be lined up straight.




· Too much weight forward on take-off causes the whole unit to be nose-heavy and this results in the front ski landing first.


· Not keeping your feet pointing forward or holding the handlebars firmly enough so that when you land the impact of the body weight is not absorbed and you do the splits on your ski bike.




This is the crowning glory of ski biking.


· Ride down the fall line and lift your body slightly off the seat (i.e. un-weight the rear ski)


· Push the saddle to the side with your thigh and then apply your full body weight.


· Keep your full body weight on the seat for a short time and then lift yourself again. This time pushing to the other side, and once again apply your full weight.


· This shifting the weight on and off the seat is done by fractionally lifting and lowering the body on and off the seat.  


· The tip of the front ski remains pointing straight downhill all the time.




Imagine that you are skibiking in and out of a dotted white line.  The steeper the slope the more the rear ski must swing from side to side to control your speed.




· Bad foot ski position


· Weight being applied to the inner edge of the front ski.




It will be an unforgettable experience for anyone to ride a ski bike through deep snow.  Whilst the inexperienced skier has considerable difficulties in deep snow it can be handled easily on a ski bike:


 When you are riding into a slope covered with deep powder snow use the following techniques:


· Sit back as far as possible on the seat with minimum weight on the handlebars.  


· The tip of the front ski and the tips of the foot skis should just project from the snow. This is done by lifting your feet and keeping your toes pointing upwards at an angle.


· To start a swing turn, a brief un-weighting is required and lifting-off the seat completely.


·  When the slope becomes gentler, glide downhill in full swing turns and lift the foot skis as high as possible so that they do not have any contact with the snow.


· Through very deep, loose powder snow it is best to ride with swing turns near to the fall line.  Only on very steep slopes are swings with a larger swing radius possible.


· Snow with a crust of ice on top of a foot or so of soft snow is almost impossible to ski in.  On a ski bike it is fast and only a little difficult to turn, so take long sweeping turns and slow down when in the traverse.




· Front ski being buried.


· Foot skis not forward and high enough and get caught in the snow


· Not reading the slope well enough - particularly amongst trees,



One of the most difficult things to do in the world is to climb back uphill with a ski bike in deep snow!





The SAGB standards are:




· Complete lessons 1 to 4 to a basic standard.

· Negotiate easy undulations




· Complete lessons 1 to 5 with style and lessons 6 and 7 to a basic standard.

· Some knowledge and experience of deep snow technique.




· Complete all lessons with good style and demonstrate the ability to descend a moderate course at a reasonable speed.




Every year there is a World Championship and a World Cup Series of race meetings; usually each event has 2 or 3 races (Slalom, Giant Slalom, Super Giant Slalom and Downhill) organised by the Federation Internationale de Skibob (FISB) for the following 16 classes:


School Boys and Girls 8-11 SM1/SW1

School Boys and Girls 12-15 yrs SM2/SW2

Young Men and Girls 16-19 yrs JM/JW

Elite 1 Men and Woman   20- 30 yrs Herren/Damen

Senior 1 Men and Women   31-40 yrs HAK1/DAK1

Senior 2 Men and  Women    41-50 yrs HAK2/DAK2

Senior 3 Men and Women   51-60 yrs HAK3/DAK3

Senior 4 Men and Women    over 60 yrs HAK4/DAK4


There are also many National and Lande Championships at which you may race in the guest class as well as FISB A races.


The British National Championships are usually held during the  British National Week each year.  The Army and Interservices Championships are also held annually either in the Alps or in Scotland.

SAGB Skibike Instruction Manual
(Edition 7.1 Draft)